The Big Curry Hunt

Maharani used to be a typical looking curry house, situated in the heart of Soho.  Surrounded by many great pubs and bars yet serving distinctly average food.  A few months back it was completely gutted and redeveloped, both interior and menu.  Both for the better.

Not the biggest place ever and that is most definitely a good thing.  When this place first reopened it took a while for the clientelle to come back as there is great competition in abundance in the surrounding area.  Diners were wary to come back as a wasted curry is a truly heinous experience.  One to make you angry and despondent enough to hit the after curry bars with extended vigour.  It’ll take a couple of beers to wash the impassive flavour from your mouth.

Another reason the punters were a little wary to return to their previous stomping ground was the deviation from the tried and tested (and ridiculously successful) method with regard to the menu and feel of the place.  Maharani decided to bridge the gap between a good curry and fine dining.  The road to hell is littered with good intentions and many a curry house has tried this and failed miserably.  It is quite hard to convince an entire populace that the curries that they had all been raised with were now going to cost you three times as much.  Tiny, pretty portions had been tried and had failed miserably.  After all, a curry is a good meal and portions always need to be maintained.  Spicing things so delicately that the overall taste is of blandness and lethargy didn’t work either.  Curries are usually about big flavours and at least one thing on your table must have the ability to punch you in the face at some point in the meal.  Having staggered wilfully through the plethora of the equally fanciful and shitty failures had made us all a little twitchy with swanky curry houses.

We needn’t have worried though.  Maharani has a really interesting table with only a few dishes departing a little too far from their illustrious ancestors and sitting impotently in the “oh look how clever we are” school of restauranting.  They serve a great thali and have some really interesting, and remarkably presented, dishes to choose from.  A good, loud crowd as well ensures a great experience.  Well worth a visit.

Ratings.

Popaddoms and Pickles - I was most distressed on my first visit when we were presented with a bowl of mini poppadoms and three very vapid looking pickles.  Luckily for the restaurants owners the poppadoms were very crispy, warm and dry.   I’ve trashed places for less.  The first pickle was a blend of beetroot and spices that was the best purple item i’ve ever put in my mouth.  The second was a thick blended tomato chutney that was fantastic and the third was the best mint chuntney I’ve had in years.  All fantastic.

Beers – No taps.  Saved by the Cobra 660ml.

Sides – This is where it falls down slightly.  The Sag Aloo is verging on the average.

Curries – Not bad at all.  Some of the dishes are really rather special although you may get surprised every now and then by shitty insipidness.  Overall they are almost excellent.  Do not order the lamb shank as it is more of a soup than a curry.  Not good.

Vindictiveness of Waiters – Not at all.  A chink in their armour.  They need to be told firmly to make it hot.  Sometimes more than once.

Face Towels -  Quality towelling, pre sealed in a light plastic bag and with a pleasant lemony smell.  Not quite hot enough.  When that towel hits my face I want to panic slightly for the first few seconds.

Complimentary Chocolate With The Bill – Plastic wrapped, no writing and a slight minty edge.  Quite pleasant.

Price – A basket of mini poppadoms, 2 cobra 660ml, 2 curries, 2 pilau rice and 1 Sag Aloo will cost you around £60. A little heavy for a nonchalant lunch but worth it.

Final Score – 8.5 out of 10.  Could improve to 9 easily with the removal of the artistic efforts on certain dishes.  A small gripe

One Sentence Summary – Maharani is a lovely restaurant with some really excellent dishes.